Marsa Alam is the Red Sea at its most unspoiled — a quieter, wilder coastline where the reefs come right to the shore and dolphins, dugongs and turtles outnumber the crowds. It’s a diver’s and snorkeller’s dream, with resorts set on long empty beaches.

Inland, the Eastern Desert rolls toward the mountains; offshore, sites like Elphinstone and Dolphin House are legendary. This is where to come when you want the sea and not much else.